![]() Place one full tile on top of the tile closest to the wall. Step 6 Scribe Tiles to Fit Along Walls Photo by Shaffer Smith Photography Work out from the first tile in a step pattern, first out along the chalk lines, then filling in (as shown).Ĭontinue until you reach the last course before the walls then start on the next quadrant. Set the rest of the tiles in the quadrant. Peel off the backing sheet from the first tile and set it into the corner formed by the intersecting chalk lines. Tile the floor one quadrant at a time, beginning at the center point. Step 5 Start Tiling at the Room's Center Photo by Shaffer Smith Photography Snap a second wall-to-wall chalk line on the perpendicular lines to divide the room into quadrants (as shown). Do the same on the other side of the chalk line. Line up a framing square along the chalk line at the center point, then make a line along the square's tongue perpendicular to the chalk line. Measure the chalk line and mark its center to indicate the room's center point. Snap a wall-to-wall chalk line lined up on the marks. Measure the width of the room in two places and in each case mark its exact center on the floor. Step 4 Lay out the Room in Quadrants Photo by Shaffer Smith Photography Slide the tile around to the front and then cut through the casing in the same manner. Lay an undercut saw flat on top of the tile and carefully cut through the jamb (as shown). To trim down the door opening so the tiles will fit underneath, place a tile upside down in front of either door jamb to serve as a height guide. Step 3 Trim the Door Jamb and Casing Photo by Shaffer Smith Photography Sand the seams smooth with a sanding pad with 100-grit paper. Allow to dry completely (about 30 minutes). Spread a thin layer of leveling compound along the plywood seams with a 6-inch drywall knife. Pry up any existing shoe molding from around the perimeter of the room.Ĭover the entire floor with ¼-inch plywood underlayment secured with 1 ¼-inch (3d) underlayment nails. Step 2 Put down Underlayment Photo by Shaffer Smith Photography Save until last all of the cuts requiring a wetsaw. You shouldn't step on any tiles until the thinset has cured for at least 24 hours. When awkwardly sized tiles can't be avoided, place them where vanities will cover them later or out of the main sight lines from the doorway. Strive for a layout that maximizes the number of whole tiles and the size of any cut tiles. Step 1 Tiling a Floor Overview Illustration by Gregory Nemec Here, we asked Jimmy Tiganella, owner of Classic Tile in Oakville, Connecticut, to demonstrate how to install a long-lasting vinyl tile floor, a job that starts with covering the old floor with plywood underlayment. ![]() Self-adhesive vinyl tiles are a peel-and-stick product, making them ideally suited for do-it-yourselfers. Glue-down tiles are set into a bed of mastic, which is a rather messy process. There are two types of vinyl tile: glue-down and self-adhesive. The 12x12-inch tiles come in dozens of colors, patterns and textures, making it easy to create checkerboard designs and floors with contrasting borders. Vinyl tiles remain popular today and are commonly installed in baths, foyers, laundry rooms and mudrooms. Originally produced as an alternative to linoleum, vinyl tile grew in popularity because it was colorful, easy to clean and crack resistant. Long before the advent of resilient sheet flooring and plastic-laminate planks, there was vinyl tile. ![]()
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